A bridge too far

Day 17: 22 November 2019

I could not contain a sense of joyful anticipation for this next stage as I worked on Thursday. Monday’s challenging walk, due to the distance we covered, was extremely encouraging, and the idea of getting to our destination is starting to feel real. There are also a couple of significant anniversaries this weekend. On this day last year, 23^rd November 2018, we began our pilgrimage. The following day was the day of Tim’s cardiac arrest. Tomorrow we celebrate Tim’s “Staying alive” day with ambulance officers and friends who worked together to enable him to make a full recovery. It has been fitting to be continuing our pilgrimage this weekend as well.

We had always heard great things about the Wayatinah Caravan Park so booked a powered site for 2 nights. Straight after work we jumped into my car and picked up Tim’s vehicle 135 km away at Bronte Park where some friends had kindly babysat it for us. The tent and camping gear were still in his car, so our pack up was rather simple this time. At Wayatinah, we soon pitched the tent and settled in for an early night, the predicted high winds quite conveniently dropping away.

Yesterday morning we drove back to Tarraleah to enjoy a coffee and cooked breakfast at Teez’s Café. We had great walking conditions and set out on the clearly marked trail to Tarraleah Falls. Does anyone know the purpose of these structures, a few hundred meters from the estate?

The falls are magnificent. From there, though,  I was in Tim’s hands. His reputation as Mr GPS was sustained throughout the day, as we had to find links between various forestry tracks that did not connect. Crossing the creek, then bush-bashing up the hill we came up directly onto a track we had scouted on the way to breakfast. When we crossed the Lyell Highway I again followed Tim who was confident we could scramble through bush to find the road we needed, and sure enough, though he led us to a marshy area, we came directly to a ready-made bridge, i.e. log, where we could easily cross.

After 2 hours walking it was time to take a break and we are most grateful to the makers of Helinox chairs. Best 495 g object anyone could add to a backpack! Being able to sit back comfortably while sipping on magnesium-fortified water and a hearty scroggin mix made the next leg that much easier.

We continued to meander through forestry areas, noting the sterile quietness of the pine plantations and the chatter of birds once we were back in sclerophyll forest. 4 hours walking (16 km) and we were back at our tent. We were rather tired, so had a relaxing afternoon including a couple of car shuffles to retrieve my car then deliver it to the Florentine River crossing.

In 2016 the Florentine Bridge was destroyed by fire, presumably due to arson. (See a picture here https://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-06-07/florentine-bridge-on-fire/7486914 ) We had scouted the river last year from the southern side, and since then have hoped that we would be able to ford the river when the time came. We were rather discouraged when we dropped my car off, as the river was high and raging. We decided we needed an angel to get us over.

Back at the Wayatinah Tavern, we met proprietors Steve and Merrin (It made my day, meeting Merrin.  We Merrans do not often meet other Merrins). When Tim explained our predicament, Steve called up one of his fishing mates, and he and his dog came by the campground to suggest one of the only places we might be able to safely cross, below a weir a further  500m downstream from the absent bridge. We completed the day’s walk in the evening, another 8 km along a mostly unused road, then  followed the directions to the weir. We found it easily, and stood there gazing out at the racing water spilling over smooth boulders. I was starting to steel myself for a crossing that seemed rather too challenging for me when Tim declared we would have to give it a miss for being too dangerous under the present conditions. It was a difficult decision, as it means we may end up crossing most of Tasmania, but  for the 40 metre width of the Florentine River. Still, we are not up to taking unnecessary risks, and this was definitely the right call to make.

Plan A for today (Saturday) was to cross the river, then keep walking down the Florentine Road as far as possible before Justin and Kira came to meet us and drive us back to our cars. Plan B was to return home today, and that is what we have done. We are now hoping to base ourselves in Maydena at the end of next week, and to walk as far as we can over 5 days, hopefully all the way from the Florentine River to the beginning of the Port Davey Track via Adamsfield.

Stage 16 has been characterised by hospitality and friendliness. From the chef at Teez’s Café, the owner of the Wayatinah Campground, the staff at the tavern, our local fisherman guide, and our friends at Bronte Park sharing stories over a cuppa as we again left a vehicle at their property, our hearts have been gladdened by the kindness that we have been offered.