Day 21: 1 December 2019
Our initial plan was to take the last 2 days of our Maydena trip to walk Scott’s Peak Dam Road to Huon Campsite, the start of the Port Davey Track. We decided, however, to aim for the full 37 km in one day – not so much because we love the walking, but to save driving our cars for a second long car shuffle. (And also the chance to sleep in tomorrow). We had already clocked up over 80 km in 3 days so a big day today would make a total of about 117 km in the 4 days – great preparation for the final 2 weeks of our pilgrimage traverse of the island.
We had a slower start this morning, leaving Maydena about 7:30 am and a long car shuffle, so it was around 9:20 am when we began the day’s walking with a gentle climb from the Gordon Road before a long downhill run toward Lake Pedder. The walk was shared with familiar friends – the red-tipped myrtles, occasional waratahs, and a very relaxed wallaby who only made a feeble attempt at being startled by our approach. The weather fully lived up to expectations as we had cold wet squalls throughout the day. This was our moment to showcase our wet-weather gear. Our Helinox trekking umbrellas proved great assets to us though they may have perturbed the drivers of the very few vehicles who passed us on the road. They all appeared anxious to depart the area. So most of the day it was just the 2 of us, walking steadily down the long road to the deep south.
Throughout our traverse, we have realised that we are not only walking through nature and geography, but through the recent history of Tasmania. We have walked through most of the story of hydroelectricity up through the Mersey Forth, down through the Derwent and now the Gordon Pedder system. We have walked old and new forestry tracks, passing active harvesting, seeing signs of carefully managed plantations and also some fairly ugly pieces of destruction. There have been old mining areas, beehives, and new wilderness tourism ventures. For the last few days in particular bushfires have blacked and scarred the landscape. I (Merran) usually listen to ABC Classic while I drive, and this week has featured Katie Noonan’s album, The Glad Tomorrow, based on the poetry of Oodgeroo Noonuccal (aka Kath Walker). It has been a poignant backdrop to my thoughts as we pass through this country on foot.
We have been conscious this week that this time last year Tim was in hospital in Launceston waiting for transfer to Hobart for heart surgery. He was connected to a portable monitor and every time his heart rhythm threw an unusual beat there were doctors and nurses running to check he was OK. After two rounds of surgery, we are both very thankful for what appears to be a full recovery and we are able to continue our journey in good health.
Again, our expectation today was for a rather boring long stretch of road. Once again, we were pleasantly surprised. There were several stands of magnificent virgin rainforest with towering myrtle beeches. The peaks of the Mt Anne range and distant Western Arthurs emerged from mist and cloud from time to time. It was probably the sudden weather changes, downpours one minute, wind the next, a moment of sun and then soaking rain that made us realise we are truly in the southwest, a wild, untamable and unforgiving environment. The moody Lake Pedder provided a backdrop to the afternoon’s walking and had us discussing the original lake which was flooded for the Gordon-Pedder hydro scheme.
Our second lunch (a hot cup of tea and snacks) in the picnic shelter at Edgar Campground at 5 pm gave us energy for the final 7 km of the day. The showers, bitterly cold winds, heavy clouds, and a rainbow, provided just the right preview for our final 155 km walk. A few days at home and we will be back here to begin the Port Davey Track. We know well that slightly excited feeling from previous pilgrimages, that we just might make it.
Tim and Merran, I have been meaning to get on and read through your blog, but today I finally got to it – start to this point. Thank you both for sharing your incredible journey with such honesty and openness. I found myself moved to tears several times at the way you give words to the unfolding of grace in your lives. Blessings for the rest of your epic journey.